Courtesy of Freddie Mac
Step 2
The Inspection
Basements
General Observations | Basements | Home Systems | Kitchen and Bath | The Exterior
It is important to inspect the basement carefully. All the major mechanical, plumbing and heating systems in a home are usually located in the basement. It is also the only part of a home where exposed piping, wiring and framing can almost always be seen. Foundation or structural problems may also be detected in the basement, and they typically affect the entire home.
- Check the basement walls for large cracks or any noticeable defects. Also look for signs of movement, particularly in an older home. Hairline vertical cracks along the mortar joints and concrete block are not usually causes for alarm. A crack that indicates a serious problem will be at least 1/4 inch wide all the way through to the outside wall. In some cases, horizontal cracks that are 1/2 inch wide or wider, and have caused the wall to bow out, stem from pressure building up behind the wall from the outside. In order to correct the problem, this pressure must be relieved. Be sure to have your professional inspector check this.
If the cracks are very wide and there's been significant settlement, the footings or foundation were probably poured on fill ground. In this situation, it might be necessary to underpin. Your professional home inspector will be able to determine the extent of and solution to the damage. Be aware that settlement cracks in a basement floor slab are not usually structurally significant, but they may indicate either the compacting of fill dirt on which the slab was poured or the presence of an underground spring.
- Examine the condition of the mortar between the bricks or cinder block when you look at the basement walls. In many older homes, the original mortar will have deteriorated and need pointing up in order for the wall to maintain structural integrity.
- Check all the wood structural members in the basement for signs of rot or termite damage. In most parts of the country, termites are subterranean and will almost always be found where the wood is close to the ground.
- Pay particular attention to the sill plate around the perimeter of the exterior walls (the 2x6 or 2x8 that is bolted to the top of the masonry foundation walls). Termites can also enter where there is concrete on the exterior, for example, under a concrete porch or around a fireplace hearth.
- Look for signs of work done since the home was built. If additional support columns were installed, for example, its important to determine why it was done. It might mean the home has a structural defect.
- Inspect the deterioration of materials and other factors that might affect the livability of the home. For example, if the basement is not at least 7 1/2 feet high, it will probably not be usable as living space. While some codes permit a basement recreation room or bedroom to be as low as 6 1/2 feet high, 7 1/2 feet is considered the minimum for living standards.
Be aware of unfaced stairs, deteriorated stair treads, leaky doors, and windows that are frozen open or shut.
- Check for the presence of asbestos. This can only be verified by an expert, but can be spotted in heat pipe coverings in older homes, packing material on old hot water and steam boilers and fireproof materials in furnace rooms. If your professional home inspector finds it, you may wish to leave it in place, if it is in good condition, not friable and not likely to deteriorate. Or you may want to negotiate the cost of having it removed or encapsulated.
- Ask the current owner if the home has been checked for radon; if not, make the purchase offer contingent upon a radon test. Radon is an odorless, colorless gas that may seep into the house from the soil. Radon is known to cause cancer. A ventilation system may take care of a radon problem.
- Hire a termite inspector to check the crawl space for termite activity or damage to the home you have selected. This is usually done after the contract is ratified but before closing. If there's no access to the crawl space, you wont be able to identify termite activity or possible structural damage.
Water Problems
While the vast majority of basement water problems can be solved by controlling roof and surface water, some may require a more expensive solution because of local conditions. It pays to know the difference. One of the problems in owning a home is moisture in the basement or crawl space.
Be aware of the particular neighborhoods or locations in your area with a history of water problems due to a high water table, underground springs or other geographical or topographical factors. If you're in doubt, check with your local building or public works department.
- Check the exposed walls for white efflorescence indicating water building up behind the wall and for dark spots indicating additional water pressure. Pay particular attention to wood paneling or wallboard for signs of moisture at the base of the wall or any buckling in the wall. If the floor tile is loose, pull it up to look for moisture underneath. Tile will not stay down if there's moisture. Standing water will cause discoloration at the seams.
- Check out of the way places and behind items stored against the walls. Look for stains. Look around the furnace for rust marks and around window wells for moisture or signs of moisture in the past.
- Be aware of new concrete around the perimeter of the basement slab. If it's there, that usually means that the slab has been broken out and tied into a sump pump with a French drain installed. This might indicate a previous water problem. A properly installed drain tile and sump pump system will solve the problem. Be aware that many waterproofing contractors will sell and install an expensive French drain and sump pump when all that you need is better exterior grading and the right extension of downspouts from the gutter system.
- Check the grading outside to see whether gutters and downspouts are properly aligned and cleaned. Look for anything else that might indicate a roof and surface water problem rather than a high water table.
- If you find a water problem, check it carefully and have it checked later by a professional to determine whether it has been corrected or continues to be a problem. While most basement water problems can be corrected by controlling roof and surface water, you may want to have your professional home inspector check this.
- Check that the ceiling height is at least 7 1/2 feet over 70 percent of the area. A professional can help you determine if the recommended 1/2 inch fire code drywall ceiling separates the apartment from the first floor. It should be installed directly over the joists with all steel beams enclosed. The ceiling cannot be applied over wood lath. Stairways should be enclosed with fire code drywall and a Class B fire door. It's best to have a separate electric meter and service. You should consult local building codes and a professional to determine if the unit is legal.
- Look for a separate heating system for the apartment. Codes usually do not permit circulation of air between separate living units. If the heating system is a hot water system, a separate zone for the basement apartment is helpful, but not necessary.
Check for a circulating pump on the boiler. If the heat comes only from exposed pipes, it will subside when the pipes are enclosed.
- Make sure the furnace room has outside ventilation and is enclosed with a fire wall and fireproof door. Many codes require that a wall area equal to one eighth of the floor area includes windows or doors for proper light and ventilation.
Check to be sure the home is zoned for a two family flat and that there is an occupancy permit.
General Observations | Basements | Home Systems | Kitchen and Bath | The Exterior
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